My BoHo Dress ~ Part Three: Dying

Day Three: Dying! One of my fav things to do. I started off with a medium color green dye and quickly dipped the dress into it. I wanted the whole dress to be a light green before I tie dyed it. When it was all over green, I then laid it out and from the middle out scrunched it up. When I had a ball of dress I used some rubber bands to hold it in place and put it back in the same medium green dye bath. I wanted random splotches of darker color.

 I let it sit for a long time. I hoped it would dye darker in the crinkles, but it just didn't look like it was doing anything. After about 40 mins, I dropped the soggy wad of dress into a plastic bag and microwaved it for 30 seconds, flipped it, and microwaved it another 30 seconds. That is what I do with wool fiber I dye. Crossing my fingers that it would work, I took it back outside and shook it out. It looked FANTASTIC! I was so thrilled! Such a beautiful emerald color, and the crinkly dye looked amazing! I let it dry just a little because I wasn't done. I wanted to try a gradient dye on the bottom tips of the skirt. I mixed up the dark green dye in a bucket and started dipping just the tips of the dress in it. In and out, in and out. Every time I dipped it in, I dipped it a little deeper. The idea is the tips will be in the dye the longest and will dye the darkest. It will slowly shade up the dress. I didn't go far up, I just wanted the bottom of the skirt to be dark. When I was satisfied with the result I hung it up to dry. It really did look awesome.

When it was still damp I took it inside to iron it. I still needed to add some embroidery to it, but time was running short. It needed to be wearable by the next morning. Somewhat to my dismay, as I was ironing it, it dried faster and the color is a whole lot lighter when it's dry. A whole lot lighter. I mean, it's still pretty, but I lost a lot of that beautiful emerald green color to more of a pastel, almost mint green. And for some reason, even tho I used 100% cotton thread to sew it up, the thread didn't dye evenly with the dress. Kinda bummed about that.

Maybe next time I'll try adding something to the dye bath to make it brighter. Vinegar or salt or something. I have some Alum still I use for wool, wonder if it will work for cotton... But that all for another day. I added some trim to the back to give it almost a corset lace up look and just barley started on the decoration (just a handful of beads on the neckline) before time was up.

But I was (and am) still proud of this dress. Even if it didn't turn out exactly as I had in mind, it was still great for a prototype. I do plan on making more and continuing to adapt it to make the dresses I adore. And yes, I did wear it to the Chicago Printer's Row Fair where I met one of my favorite authors and she signed my copy of her new book. Laurell K. Hamilton and Shiver Of Light.

My BoHo Dress ~ Part Two: Construction

I don't usually use patterns, but I also didn't want anything to go wrong with this dress. I had a vague idea that I wanted to wear the finished product (if it turned out) to the Chicago Printer's Row Fair. In 3 days. Dunno why I gave myself so few days to do it. But I had it all worked out. Day one would be shopping and planning, day two was cutting and sewing, and day three was dying and embroidery. It seemed so easy.

Day One: I bought a pattern for 3 bucks. I like the b dress but I want a more open neck line, fuller skirt, and handkerchief hem. I bought the cheapest cotton muslin I could find, 3 bucks a yard. Knowing I was gonna heavily modify the pattern I got 6 yards but only used about 4. I might make a shirt or skirt out of the rest. I also picked up a couple small packets of Rit Dye. All told it came under 25 dollars. Less because I had so much muslin left over, I didn't need to buy 6 yards for the one dress.

Here is the pattern I mostly used. I went with the "B" style dress on the left, but didn't use the sleeves and changed the neck, skirt and hem.

And the back of the packet. It says I didn't need much more than 3 yards, but I like to over estimate that by a lot.

I always have a hard time laying out the pattern pieces like the instructions show you. It never fits quite right. I was supposed to be able to get 3 long pieces across, that didn't happen.

After cutting out the pieces I pinned a piece of scrap paper to it with what the piece was and the number it was listed. This helps in telling front from back pieces because they all look so much alike.

All the pieces waiting to be assembled. I cut it all out in one night and used the next morning to sew it.

Day Two: This day nearly called off the whole project. I love my sewing machine, but it is very old. Its a big heavy metal Singer, the kind meant to last forever. Well lately I've noticed the foot pedal hasn't been as responsive as it usually is. I took it apart and found that the cord that goes to the pedal splits into 2 wires that slip over these 2 metal tabs inside the pedal. One of those tabs was hanging by a thread and about to break off. I've known this for a while and was just very ginger about handling it. Don't bump it, move it very gently. It chose this day to break. Now I know we own another plastic sewing machine, but do you think I could find where we stored it? Of course not. We also have 2 treadle sewing machines, but I don't know how to load the bobbin, and it stores so little thread it has to be loaded a lot. If I broke that or messed up the tension Dad would have a heart attack. The treadles are kinda his babies.  If I had to hand sew the whole thing I would never have it done in 2 days. So I McGuyvered my sewing machine with a bit of tape to hold the wire in place.

SAFETY WARNING! DON'T DO THAT AT HOME. SCOTCH TAPE IS NOT MADE TO HOLD WIRES IN PLACE! I DID IT OUT OF STUPIDITY AND DESPERATION. THE FACT THAT IT WORKED DOES NOT MEAN I EVER INTEND TO DO SOMETHING LIKE THAT AGAIN AND NEITHER SHOULD YOU.

Here is the assembled dress by the end of Day 2. I had hoped to start dying it that day too, but the sewing machine fiasco set my time table back quite a bit.

My BoHo Dress ~ Part One: Frustration

I have a favorite style of dress. I have no idea if it has a name. I call them Those-Hippie-Ethic-Tie Dyed-No-Wait-I-Think-It's-Called-Batik-Dresses. A cumbersome name, I know. They are hard to describe so I'll link a bunch of pictures to help. If anyone knows if they have an actual name, please let me know it!

(all pictures found on Google, I own none of these images)

They are rather loose and flowing dresses. A light weight material that has been tie dyed, but not the tie dye most people think of :

No, not that kind of Tie Dye. A subtle play of color, usually one color that is just darker in some spots than in others. Maybe batik instead of tie dye.

This one is probably the best example
of what I am trying to describe.

They are almost always one size fits all, a major drawback for a woman of my...ahem...ample proportions. To make it look fitted there is usually rows of elastic sewn into the top. When the dress is relaxed, the elastic pulls it into puckers and gathers. There is also almost always some embroidery on them. Maybe tiny beads or sparse sequins. They come in many colors but all are usually darker. Dark royal blue, deep violet, emerald green, etc.

Ok, I just spent way too much time describing the dresses I like. Back to the story. There are a few stores in my area that sell dresses like this. (Stores like this usually also sell incense sticks, Grateful Dead tee shirts, and black light posters) While I know I really can't afford them and they rarely fit, I still like to pet and gaze longingly at them. At one such store a couple weeks ago I was checking out this amazing emerald green gradient dyed, handkerchief hem, sleeveless, corset back... there I go again. Anyway, this pretty dress marked 48 dollars when the sales person came over and told me the dresses were all 25 bucks. Totally not believing him I asked about the one I was holding. He nodded and told me that one was 20 bucks. Ecstatic I tried it on. Didn't fit. Undaunted, I tried on about 8 more dresses. Not a bloody one fit. I was both crushed and determined. If I couldn't buy the dress I wanted, I would make it. And I would make it for the 20 bucks the salesperson would have given it to me for.

Wicked Witches

I covered the costumes I made for my coworkers, but never showed off what I came up with for myself! I didn't sew anything for myself, most of my costume was stuff I already had. Every year I end up buying a witches hat because I've lost the one I bought the year before. This year was no exception. Somewhere in my house I must have a stash of 80 hats *sigh*. This year I was disappointed because the only hat I could find that had hair attached had purple streaks in the hair. I wanted all black. This turned out well though. The cape I have in my collection is black velvet on the outside but purple on the inside. It tied nicely with the hat. Then when I wanted striped socks I found some grey and purple ones. Purple turned into an nice accidental accent :D

My makeup was so much fun to do. A bright green base, I outlined wrinkles, lips and brows in black. My prosthetic nose had yellow highlights on it so I added yellow to cheekbones, forehead, and chin to match. I got some odd looks from passing cars for sure :)

Not only did I do my outfit as the Wicked Witch of the West, I also did the Wicked Witch of the East. She was easy enough, an extra pair of striped socks stuffed with some red sequined slippers we sell at the store. I just tucked the free end under the checkout counter. Looks like she got the table dropped on her.

And a shot of all of us together. I had no hand in the Tin Woodsman or Glenda the Good Witch but they did well by themselves. I loved doing this and hope next year we do something new. Maybe Disney Princesses. Something for an ensemble to do that is mostly women.

Zombie Fest

2011

My hometown does Halloween right. For 3 years now they have done "Nightmare on Chicago Street", a full blown, post-apocalyptic zombie fest! The first year I went as a lab tech who got too close to her test subjects:

Photo courtesy of the Death Maidens 

Grrr, Arrgh!

Very simple makeup with store bought lab coat and missing eye prosthetic. I had the scrubs from when I did a phlebotomy rotation in college. The store bought prosthetic was a pain, because it was made from black latex and no matter how much makeup I used, I couldn't get it to blend in with my skin tone. I made the lab badge and even had a clip board of test results of the zombie virus. Carrying around a clipboard made people keep thinking I was part of the event staff though.

2012

The next year I wanted to go as a Plants vs Zombies character. I even found a real life traffic cone in my backyard blown in from a nearby highway. What I soon discovered, tho, is real life traffic cones are heavy and uncomfortable to wear on your head. Scrapping the idea with just hours to go before the event I had to fashion one out of construction paper. Turned out fine, if a bit childlike. I made it up with face paint tho. I think I might have a bit of a hidden talent when it comes to costume make up. Shirt was from my own wardrobe, coat and tie stolen from dad's closet.

Dad rocking his Jack the Ripper outfit.

They had a real life Plants vs Zombies game that year with
paint ball guns and plywood zombie targets.

2013

And this past year I decided I wanted to go as a gas mask zombie from the episode "The Empty Child" of Doctor Who. The dress and cape I have in my Civil War collection even tho the episode takes place in WWII. The apron, hat and gas mask I made the day before. I love the mask, but it has some problems I need to correct. First and foremost, it fogs up as I breathe and I can't see out of it. The second and minor problem is that it isn't screen accurate. The snout is too long and I think shortening it up might fix the fogging problem. The metal rings around the eyes and snout are canning jar lid rings. The lenses are 2 half spheres that when put together make a plastic tree ornament. The picture is blurry but I'll try and get a better one of the mask. Despite the problems, I'm super proud of it.

Sorry for blurry pic

My costume and a frame from the episode I took
the idea from.

Wizard of Oz ~ Cowardly Lion

The Cowardly Lion. How do you do that without having to make a whole huge fursuit? Well this was very easy. I found an ear headband and tail at the dollar store and made the cuffs and collar. One sheet of craft fur was enough for both cuffs and the collar. The back of the craft fur is very scratchy so I lined it with craft felt. Cut the rectangle of fabric into 4 smaller rectangles. Sew both long sides to the felt leaving the short sides open to run a drawstring thru. I should have tacked the collar pieces together so it wouldn't gap apart, but I threw this together as an after thought. I was just going to use the ears and tail, but the cuffs and collar added so much more I'm glad I made them.

You can see the collar gapping open. It's cute and can work
but I still wish I had tried to tack it together.

Close up of the stitching and where the collar gaps open.

Felt sewn to the back of the cuffs and collar.

Stitching at the bottom and under the fur.

Backside of the collar. I used some yarn as the drawstring.

Have your model wear a brown shirt and pants. A little face paint for a nose and whiskers and you are done! One sheet of craft fur: 3 bucks. One sheet of felt: 25 cents. Ear headband 1 dollar. Tail: 1 dollar. Total: 5.25.

Wizard of Oz ~ Dorothy

This Dorothy costume is what got me making the outfits for the store. When we were thinking about dressing up, Dorothy was the one we thought for sure we'd have to buy and costumes at stores tend to be more expensive. No one wanted to spend much money on this, so I decided I'd try and make one. I bought a pattern for it but ended up never using it. It turned out more of an apron than a pinafore but still works well.

Me as the Witch and a Co-worker as Dorothy

I wish I had thought to take progress pictures so I could show you what I did to the fabric and the cuts I made. It is 2 yards of a blue and white gingham check.

Here is a pattern I whipped up to show you how I cut up the fabric.

Unfold your fabric. The majority is going to be skirt. A small square will be the bib front. The fabric to the side of the square will be your straps and drawstring. On the one that I made, I made the bib front too big and it tends to gap open at the top. Learn from my mistakes :)

You will hem the 2 sides and bottom of the skirt and the 2 sides and top of the bib. Aline the unhemmed edge of the bottom of the bib with the middle of the unhemmed edge of the top of the skirt right sides facing each other. Altho with Gingham there really isn't a wrong side, but if you are using different material then make sure your right sides are together. That sounded really confusing. Here is another picture of what I mean:

Now the next part isn't really tricky, but it is odd. You will fold down the top unhemmed skirt to make a big channel. This will make the waistband that the draw string will go thru. I did it with wrong sides together, but I regret that. You should do it with right sides together so that the channel for the waistband will be inside the pinafore, not outside where you can see it. This will require that you are careful with where the bib ends up. I accidently got the bib snarled up and had to rip the seam out because it sewed weird.

For the straps I simply sewed down one long side (Right sides together if you have a right side and wrong side) and turned them inside out so the sem was inside and it was a long tube. Press it flat and sew it to the corner of the bib. Bring it over your shoulder and pin it to the inside of the skirt. Repeat for the other shoulder. Run your drawstring thru the waist band channel and you are set to go. Tie the left over bits from the shoulder straps into bow in your hair and you are good to go! Here are some close ups of the finished apron on a manikin in our backroom. Sorry for the poor lighting and all the cardboard stacked up, we are getting ready for chirstmas and it was too cold for me to take pictures outside.

Front of the pinafore. You can see what I mean
about how I regret not making the waistband
 channel to the inside of the pinafore where you
wouldn't be able to see it. I also think I made
the bib too large.

Side and back view. The straps are pinned to
the inside of the skirt with safety pins.

Detail of the shoulder strap sewn onto the bib. I like to make
this cross pattern when sewing down straps. It makes me
think that it is stronger, tho I admit that the apron will
not be bearing much weight. And yes, I know there are
loose threads everywhere. I am a very sloppy sewer. Even
more so when I am under a deadline.

Have your model wear a white blouse and
since the skirt isn't sewn up the back she will
need to wear pants as well. Add props and
you are done!